Aconcagua, the highest peak in both the southern and Western Hemisphere, boasts a fascinating history and thrilling climbing routes while demanding the utmost skills and preparation. So, let's gear up and embark on this awe-inspiring journey!
History and First Ascents of Aconcagua
Aconcagua's story dates back to 1883, when it was first attempted to be climbed. However, it wasn't until 1911 that the first successful summit took place. The name "Aconcagua" originates from the Quechua language, meaning "stone sentinel" or "snowy peak". Having climbed Aconcagua in 2011, it’s much more stone sentinel than snowy peak. If you're headed to Aconcagua, be prepared to encounter every type and size of rock!
The first ascent of Aconcagua was made by Swiss climber Matthias Zurbriggen in 1908. His entire party turned back due to treacherous weather conditions and he had the fortune of standing on the summit alone. Another remarkable achievement was made by Annie Smith Peck, an exceptional woman ahead of her time. In 1908, at the age of 58, she became the first female to conquer the peak. Despite facing criticism for wearing pants during her climb, she left an indelible mark on mountaineering history. Can you imagine climbing a 22,000 foot / 6,000 meter peak while wearing a dress?? I’m in Annie’s camp!
Most Popular Routes and Terrain on Aconcagua
Aconcagua offers various routes, but two particularly popular ones are the Normal route and the 360-degree route. The Normal route commences in the Horrcones Valley and typically takes around three weeks to complete. Spanning 42 miles and gaining 13,500ft of elevation, this route is a formidable challenge. In contrast, the 360-degree route starts in the Vacas Valley and intersects the Normal route. It covers 64 miles and gains a staggering 15,000ft elevation. While both routes do not require technical climbing skills, climbers must be well-prepared physically and mentally.
The Terrain on Aconcagua is a spectacular tapestry of diverse landscapes. From steep, loose rock and scree to sand, pebbles, stones, talus, scree, and boulders – I told you it was rocky! Crampons and ice axes are often necessary near the summit, and ropes may be employed for sections of the climb.
Skills and Training for Summiting Aconcagua
Conquering Aconcagua requires a unique blend of skills, experience, and training. Climbers must possess a robust physical fitness level, be adept at handling steep, rocky terrain, and have prior experience in high-altitude climbing. Building endurance, strength, and resilience is crucial, and achieved through long hikes, runs, or bike rides. Training should be commenced at least six months before the climb, with a focus on cardiovascular fitness and lower body and core exercises. It's also essential to gradually accustom oneself to high altitudes and harsh weather conditions during your training sessions. Plan a winter camping weekend or venture out in windy (but safe) conditions if you can. Mimicking conditions on the mountain during your training program will pay off when it matters.
Challenges and Common Mistakes
Scaling Aconcagua is no easy feat, and many inexperienced climbers underestimate its difficulties and the effects of high altitude. With a success rate ranging from 35% to 60%, Aconcagua poses formidable challenges. Despite its reputation for being a challenging mountain, about 3500 people attempt to conquer it each year.
One common mistake made while climbing Aconcagua is the failure to adequately prepare for the harsh weather conditions. The summit can experience temperatures as low as -20 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit, accompanied by strong winds that can reach over 100 miles per hour. Monitoring mountain forecasts regularly and equipping oneself with appropriate clothing and gear is imperative. To begin to mentally prepare for the conditions on the mountain, listen to prior-season blog posts from expedition companies and monitor weather websites like mountainforecast.com
Conclusion
Aconcagua, South America's no-nonsense rock giant, stands there like it's saying, "Yeah, I've seen it all." It's a symbol of human grit and stubbornness. With its interesting backstory, tough routes, and no-nonsense weather, it’s in the top 3 of the most challenging of the Seven Summits.
So, if you're into pushing your limits and want to see if you've got the chops, why not take a crack at Aconcagua? Get yourself in shape, both physically and mental - hire Alpine Athletics to help you prepare - train like your life depends on it, and soak in the beauty of the peak. Don’t forget to respect the mountain, play it safe, and remember, it's not a race.
Train Smart. Climb Prepared.