Are you preparing for a high-altitude expedition or dreaming of tackling a summit like Kilimanjaro or Everest? Training for altitude is essential to ensure a safe and successful climb. In Episode 17 of Finding Elevation Podcast, I spoke with Nick Hart, a seasoned exercise physiologist from the Altitude Center in London, to unlock the secrets of high-altitude training. Here, we’ll cover Nick’s insights on how our bodies adapt to reduced oxygen, strategies for hypoxic training, and common mistakes climbers make in altitude preparation.
Whether you're an experienced climber or a beginner, these insights will prepare you to train smarter, climb higher, and stay safer.
What is Hypoxia and Why Does It Matter for Climbers?
At high altitudes, the oxygen level in the air decreases—a phenomenon known as hypoxia. This oxygen scarcity puts significant stress on the body, affecting energy, endurance, and overall performance. Nick explains that as altitude increases, the body undergoes a series of physiological adaptations. These adaptations help climbers better utilize oxygen and sustain physical exertion in oxygen-poor environments.
Key Takeaway: By understanding how hypoxia affects your body, you can make informed decisions about training methods, acclimatization strategies, and preparation.
Effective Hypoxic Training Methods to Boost Altitude Performance
Hypoxic training allows climbers to simulate high-altitude conditions, triggering crucial adaptations before they even reach the mountain. Nick Hart describes two primary approaches:
Prolonged Hypoxic Exposure
This method involves using hypoxic tents, allowing climbers to sleep in a low-oxygen environment to stimulate red blood cell production. More red blood cells mean more oxygen can be delivered to muscles and tissues, supporting endurance at high altitudes.
Intermittent Hypoxic Exposure
This technique uses mask-based systems or altitude chambers, often during exercise, to improve muscle efficiency and oxygen usage. By training the mitochondria and capillaries in your muscles, this approach builds the endurance needed for summit days and long expeditions.
Which Training Style is Right for You?
The answer depends on your specific goals. Climbers aiming for extreme peaks (like Everest or Aconcagua) often benefit from prolonged hypoxic exposure, while those tackling lower elevations (such as Kilimanjaro) can use intermittent methods for effective acclimatization.
The Role of Genetics in Altitude Tolerance
One of the most intriguing insights Nick shared is the role of genetics in altitude tolerance. Not everyone’s body responds the same way to high-altitude conditions, and this variation is often genetic. According to Nick, genetic testing can help determine how well your body tolerates altitude and identify risks for altitude sickness. This knowledge is essential for climbers planning rapid ascents or those with limited acclimatization time.
Tip: Consider genetic testing if you’re prone to altitude sickness or planning a fast-paced climb. This knowledge allows for tailored acclimatization and training strategies, potentially preventing altitude sickness.
Common Mistakes in High-Altitude Training – And How to Avoid Them
Nick emphasizes that altitude challenges are often underestimated. Here are some frequent mistakes he sees and tips on how to avoid them:
Underestimating Altitude Training Requirements
Many climbers make the mistake of thinking a “smaller” mountain like Kilimanjaro or Everest Base Camp doesn’t require serious training. The reality? Even lower-altitude climbs can be strenuous, especially with a quick ascent. Invest in a proper altitude training plan, no matter the climb’s elevation.
Going Too High Too Fast
Climbers sometimes rush their hypoxic training. Nick advises a gradual approach: start at lower simulated altitudes and progressively increase. Just as you’d climb gradually in real life, your body needs time to adjust to higher simulated altitudes.
Golden Rule for Training: Train hard, climb easy. Thorough training pays off in strength, endurance, and a safer climb.
4 Golden Rules for Altitude Success
In addition to smart training, Nick emphasizes these four foundational practices for any high-altitude journey:
Eat Well – High-calorie intake is essential at altitude.
Stay Hydrated – Drink more water than usual; altitude dehydrates quickly.
Sleep Deeply – Sleep is crucial for recovery.
Climb Slowly – A gradual pace reduces strain and enhances acclimatization.
Whether you’re heading to Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, or Everest, following these four principles helps to maximize performance and minimizes risk.
Preparing for Your First High-Altitude Climb? Here’s What to Do Next
Altitude training might seem complex, but you don’t have to figure it out alone. Here are some actionable steps to take if you’re planning your first climb:
Seek Out Hypoxic Training Facilities
If possible, find a local hypoxic training center. Even a few sessions can give you a sense of how your body responds to low-oxygen environments.
Test Your Altitude Tolerance
Consider genetic testing if you’ve experienced altitude sickness in the past or are preparing for an expedition with a rapid ascent.
Focus on Physical Fitness and Conditioning
Altitude tolerance is crucial, but physical fitness is just as important. Build a solid foundation in strength, cardio, and endurance.
Ready to Learn More? Listen to Episode 17
If you’re eager to learn more about training for altitude and preparing your body for high mountains, listen to my full conversation with Nick Hart on Finding Elevation here. You’ll find invaluable advice, insights, and stories from Nick’s work with elite climbers around the world.
