I recently had the pleasure of interviewing my friend Dr. Tracee Metcalfe on my podcast, Finding Elevation. As an experienced climber and physician, Tracee had invaluable insights to share about staying healthy and avoiding altitude sickness while mountaineering.

Acclimatizing to High Altitude

When traveling to high-altitude locations, our bodies go through a complex physiological adaptation process. As Tracee explained, the first 24-48 hours typically involve increased breathing rates and urine output as the body tries to balance oxygen and carbon dioxide levels. This can leave you dehydrated, so it's important to drink lots of fluids.

After a few days, your body starts producing more red blood cells to transport oxygen more efficiently. Proper acclimatization takes 1-2 weeks, so be patient and listen to warning signs like headaches or nausea. Pushing yourself too quickly can lead to serious illnesses like high-altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema.

Strategies for Prevention and Treatment

Tracee is a strong believer in using acetazolamide (Diamox) to aid acclimatization. By making your blood more acidic, it drives increased breathing rates and oxygen saturation. She recommends 125mg before bed to reduce periodic breathing and improve sleep at altitude.

Staying well hydrated, using protective face coverings, and managing blisters early are other important preventative measures. However, even experienced climbers can sometimes develop pulmonary or cerebral edema. Warning signs include unusual fatigue, confusion, and difficulty breathing at rest. Immediate descent and supplemental oxygen are the main treatments.

Empowering Women Climbers

I'm excited to support Tracee's upcoming climbs in Pakistan, Nepal and Tibet while she raises money for Ascend Athletics' leadership program. By teaching young women in Pakistan and Afghanistan critical mountaineering skills, they are working to increase women's participation in the sport and provide tools for confidence and self-sufficiency.