Unlocking Exercise Physiology for Endurance Athletes: Insights from Tom Cuddy

As endurance athletes, understanding our bodies' physiological responses during exercise is crucial for optimizing performance. In a recent episode of my podcast, Finding Elevation, I had the opportunity to speak with Tom Cuddy, an expert in exercise physiology and founder of Calibrated Coaching.

Tom explains the different energy systems fueling our bodies, from immediate ATP sources to the aerobic system that requires oxygen. He emphasizes the significance of lactate thresholds and VO2max testing, revealing how they impact our performance during intense activities like mountaineering and trail running.

One compelling topic was Tom's research on "vertical running economy." He highlights how even at the same VO2max, athletes can exhibit vast differences in uphill running speed based on their lactate levels and economy. Training to improve these factors can significantly enhance performance.

For serious athletes, Tom offers personalized physiological testing services, providing a comprehensive analysis to optimize your training approach.

Listen to the full conversation with Tom Cuddy on the Finding Elevation podcast here. Visit Calibrated Coaching for more information.

Mountain Medicine: How to Stay Healthy at High Altitude with Physician Tracee Metcalfe

High-altitude climbing is rewarding but poses serious risks to your health if you're not properly prepared. On my podcast, Finding Elevation, I spoke with Dr. Tracee Metcalfe about the best strategies to prevent altitude sickness and stay healthy on your climbs.

1.What Happens to Your Body at High Altitude?

• Tracee explains that your body begins to acclimatize by increasing breathing rates and red blood cell production.

• Prevent dehydration by drinking extra fluids in the first 24-48 hours.

2. Key Strategies to Prevent Altitude Sickness

• Tracee suggests using acetazolamide (Diamox) as a preventative measure.

• Managing blisters and covering your face properly can prevent infections and other complications.

3. Recognizing Symptoms and Taking Action

• Fatigue and difficulty breathing are warning signs of serious altitude sickness. In such cases, immediate descent and oxygen treatment are necessary.

Want to hear more from Dr. Tracee Metcalfe? Listen to the full podcast episode here to get deeper insights on high-altitude health, acclimatization, and empowering women climbers.

Preparing for Mount Everest: Pro Tips for a Successful Summit

Climbing Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, is an extraordinary challenge requiring extensive planning. Here are my expert tips for preparing to reach this iconic summit.

Develop a Strong Fitness Foundation

Physical fitness is non-negotiable. Focus on building cardiovascular endurance through months of zone 2 cardio training, complemented by lower body and core strength exercises. Attempting to summit another 8,000-meter peak first provides valuable experience in high-altitude conditions.

Master the Mental Game

Mental resilience plays a significant role in high-altitude climbing. Engage in visualization techniques, utilize mantras, and learn to overcome smaller challenges to build confidence. Understanding your motivations and setting a clear intention to summit will prepare your mind for the climb.

Prepare for the Unexpected

Unexpected situations can arise on Everest, so it's essential to anticipate potential challenges. Prepare a plan for each concern, whether it involves weather conditions or health issues. Always be mindful of your limits and be prepared to turn back if necessary.

Gear Up Properly

Proper gear can make or break your expedition. Ensure your oxygen mask fits correctly with your headgear, and consider adding practical features like a pee zipper. Test equipment, such as heated gloves, to guarantee they function effectively during the climb.

Support Your Summit

Find motivation through voice memos from loved ones or write a letter to yourself for encouragement. Document your journey with a post-summit selfie to capture your hard-fought achievement.

With these insights, you’ll be prepared for an Everest expedition that prioritizes health and safety. Remember, no mountain is worth risking your well-being. Trust your instincts and enjoy the incredible journey.

Finding Your Why in the Great Outdoors

In my latest episode of Finding Elevation, I tackle a vital topic: discovering your deeper purpose for outdoor adventure. As an avid mountaineer, I’ve come to understand how crucial it is to identify what drives us in the wilderness.

Growing up in the flatlands of Illinois, I didn’t see myself as an "outdoorsy" person. It wasn’t until I moved to Seattle for a corporate role that I felt compelled to climb and fit in with my athletic colleagues. Initially, my motivations were rooted in insecurity and the desire to prove myself.

The real turning point came when I faced a cancer diagnosis. This life-altering event pushed me to reassess my motivations. I discovered that my climbing pursuits weren’t simply acts of defiance; they were journeys of self-discovery and personal growth. My focus gradually shifted toward empowering women and giving back to the mountain communities that have shaped my journey.

In this episode, I share practical advice for clarifying your “why.” Techniques like journaling and repeatedly questioning your motivations can help you identify what truly drives you.

I also narrate a poignant experience from a fundraising climb in Nepal, where I tapped into my purpose—supporting education for girls to push through the toughest moments.

Understanding your motivations in the outdoors leads to more fulfilling adventures. I invite you to take time for self-reflection and uncover what drives you to embrace nature and challenge your limits. Your "why" is the key to transformative experiences on the trail.

Aconcagua: The Ultimate Guide to Summiting the Stone Sentinel of South America

Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Southern and Western Hemispheres, offers thrilling climbing routes and a rich history that demands exceptional skills and preparation. If you're ready for this awe-inspiring journey, let's gear up!

History and First Ascents of Aconcagua

Aconcagua's history dates back to 1883, with the first successful ascent occurring in 1911. Its name comes from the Quechua language, meaning "stone sentinel" or "snowy peak." Having climbed Aconcagua in 2011, I can attest that it’s more stone sentinel than snowy peak! If you're planning to conquer Aconcagua, expect to navigate a diverse array of rocks!

The first ascent was achieved by Swiss climber Matthias Zurbriggen in 1908, who faced treacherous weather conditions but reached the summit alone. Notably, Annie Smith Peck became the first female to summit Aconcagua in 1908 at the age of 58, defying norms by wearing pants. Imagine climbing a 22,000-foot peak in a dress!

Most Popular Routes and Terrain on Aconcagua

Aconcagua features several routes, with the Normal route and the 360-degree route being the most popular. The Normal route starts in the Horrcones Valley and typically takes about three weeks to complete, covering 42 miles and gaining 13,500 feet of elevation. Meanwhile, the 360-degree route begins in the Vacas Valley, intersects with the Normal route, spans 64 miles, and ascends 15,000 feet. Although these routes don't require technical climbing skills, climbers must be physically and mentally prepared.

The terrain of Aconcagua showcases diverse landscapes, from steep, loose rock to talus and boulders. Near the summit, crampons and ice axes are often necessary, and ropes may be required for specific sections of the climb.

Skills and Training for Summiting Aconcagua

To conquer Aconcagua, climbers need a mix of skills, experience, and training. A strong physical fitness level, proficiency in navigating steep terrain, and prior high-altitude climbing experience are crucial. Build endurance, strength, and resilience through long hikes, runs, or bike rides at least six months before your climb. Focus on cardiovascular fitness, lower body, and core exercises while acclimatizing yourself to high altitudes and harsh weather conditions. Consider winter camping or training in windy (but safe) conditions to simulate mountain conditions.

Challenges and Common Mistakes

Climbing Aconcagua is challenging, with a success rate ranging from 35% to 60%. Many climbers underestimate its difficulties and the effects of high altitude. One common mistake is failing to prepare for harsh weather conditions, with summit temperatures plummeting to -20°C (-4°F) and winds exceeding 100 mph. Regularly monitor mountain forecasts and equip yourself with the appropriate gear. To prepare mentally, listen to prior-season blog posts from expedition companies and check weather websites like mountainforecast.com.

Aconcagua, South America's resilient rock giant, symbolizes human grit and determination. With its rich history, tough routes, and unforgiving weather, it ranks among the top three most challenging of the Seven Summits.

If you're eager to push your limits and test your abilities, why not tackle Aconcagua? Get in shape physically and mentally—hire Alpine Athletics to help you prepare, train smart, and soak in the beauty of this magnificent peak. Always respect the mountain, prioritize safety, and remember: it's not a race.

Train Smart. Climb Prepared.

Mental Fitness in Climbing and Mountaineering: Why It Matters and How to Prepare

When it comes to climbing and mountaineering, physical fitness, technical skills, and equipment are often prioritized. However, one critical element that significantly impacts performance is mental fitness. Mental toughness can be the differentiating factor that enables climbers and mountaineers to achieve their goals and overcome challenges in the mountains.

The Importance of Mental Preparation

While physical strength and technical skills are essential, mental preparation is equally crucial for success and safety in climbing and mountaineering. The ability to maintain focus, manage fear and stress, and stay positive in the face of adversity is essential when tackling challenging routes or high-altitude expeditions.

Tips for Enhancing Mental Preparation

Here are several effective strategies to enhance mental fitness:

1. Visualization: Visualize success and mentally rehearse the climb. Imagine each step of the route and the necessary movements. This practice can help build confidence and reduce anxiety.

2. Positive Self-Talk: Use affirmations to bolster confidence. Replace negative thoughts with empowering statements that remind you of past successes.

3. Goal-Setting: Set clear, realistic, and achievable goals for each climb. Break larger objectives into smaller tasks to foster a sense of accomplishment.

4.Managing Fear and Stress: Acknowledge fear and anxiety without letting them overwhelm you. Develop strategies such as deep breathing exercises and mindfulness techniques to manage these emotions.

Building a Support Network

Developing a strong support network is vital for maintaining mental fitness. Connect with trusted friends, mentors, or fellow climbers who can offer emotional support and motivation. Sharing your concerns and successes with this network can significantly bolster your mental resilience.

Overcoming Challenges in the Mountains

Climbing and mountaineering present various challenges, including fear, fatigue, and altitude sickness. Here are strategies to navigate these obstacles:

1. Focus on Small Tasks: Break down larger goals into manageable steps to reduce feelings of overwhelm.

2. Stay Positive: Cultivate resilience and embrace challenges as opportunities for growth.

3.Embrace Discomfort: Recognize discomfort as part of the journey and use it to strengthen your mental toughness.

Addressing Post-Climb Challenges

Post-expedition letdown is common among climbers. Acknowledge these feelings and take time to reflect on your experiences to regain purpose and direction.

Sharing Strategies and Experiences

Discussing mental challenges and strategies with others can create a supportive climbing community. By sharing insights, climbers can help each other grow and succeed.

Mental fitness is a crucial aspect of climbing and mountaineering. By incorporating mental preparation strategies, building a support network, and developing techniques to overcome challenges, climbers can enhance performance and safety in the mountains. Remember, mental strength is just as vital as physical fitness, requiring consistent effort and practice. Keep climbing, push your boundaries, and focus on building your mental toughness.

Training Your Mind for Success: Mental Toughness for Adventure Athletes

Adventure sports require not just physical strength but mental toughness. Drawing from my experience summiting K2 and the Seven Summits, I’ve learned that mental training is as crucial as any physical workout. Here’s how to train your mind for peak performance:

1. Identify Your Core Motivation

Before starting your climb, take time to discover the deeper reasons behind your goal. Ask yourself "why" multiple times to reveal your most meaningful motivation. Whether it's self-fulfillment or family, having this emotional anchor will keep you grounded during tough climbs.

2. Build Mental Resilience with Positivity

Mountaineering is unpredictable, but you can train yourself to remain positive during adversity. Start by reframing setbacks in training and using mantras like "I'm prepared for this." Celebrate small victories to reinforce a positive mindset.

3. Visualize and Practice for Challenges

Afraid of crossing ladders over crevasses? Set up similar challenges in a controlled environment to prepare mentally. Practice visualization techniques to imagine yourself succeeding, so when real challenges arise, you’ll feel ready.

4. Use a Mental Toolkit to Stay Focused

Prepare mentally for summit day by stocking up on mental "gear." Whether it’s a mantra, a note from a loved one, or a visualization exercise, find what motivates you and use it to stay sharp.

5. Don’t Neglect Physical and Mental Self-Care

Proper nutrition, hydration, and rest are key to maintaining focus and avoiding exhaustion on the mountain. Pay attention to your body’s signals, and take breaks when needed to prevent both physical and mental burnout.

6. Lean on Your Support System

Surround yourself with people who support your goals and understand the challenges of mountaineering. A strong support network can help you stay motivated and maintain perspective.

With the right mental training and support, you’ll be ready to summit any mountain. Prepare your mind as thoroughly as you prepare your body for your next adventure.

How to Choose Your Next Mountain Adventure: A Step-by-Step Guide

Looking for your next mountain adventure? From Denali to Kilimanjaro, learn how to set mountaineering goals, train effectively, and choose the right climbs to challenge yourself.

Setting Your Adventure Goals

Start by identifying your long-term goals. Do you want to climb the Seven Summits or focus on becoming a stronger, more confident climber closer to home? Setting clear goals helps you chart a path forward. If your aim is Denali, but you’ve only tackled Rainier, consider climbing longer, expedition-style mountains like Kilimanjaro or Ecuador’s volcanoes to build experience.

Training for Expedition-Style Climbs

To succeed in the mountains, think of yourself as an endurance athlete. Training for climbs like Denali requires months of high-volume, low-intensity cardio to build your cardiovascular base. Alongside physical training, focus on learning mountain strategies, dealing with unpredictable weather, and building mental resilience.

Aligning with Climbing Organizations

Whether you're aiming for local peaks or Denali, surrounding yourself with experienced climbers and reputable organizations will enhance your success. Join national programs focused on mountain education or connect with like-minded adventurers to build a supportive network.

Ready for your next challenge? Check out our tailored expedition training plans!

What is Aerobic Threshold and how can I use it to improve fitness?

So, what is aerobic threshold and why - as an endurance athlete - do I care?

The range of beats per minute that your heart can sustain is organized into zones. There are as many ways to calculate heart rate (HR) zones as there are training plans, but they are all based on a percentage of your maximum heart rate. For simplicity, we’ll consider a four zone range. Keep in mind that your heart rate can be affected by many factors like stress, hormones, sleep, and medication. Heart rate zones are are also highly personalized, they’re dependent on your genetics, age, and fitness. Your lowest intensity zone is about 50 - 60% of your maximum heart rate and should be reserved for recovery. Your body will feel at ease in this zone and you are able to breathe easily through your nose. In this range, about 85% of the calories that you burn come from fat. Since we all, no matter how fit you are, have ample fat stores, athletes are able to maintain work in this low intensity zone for hours. In part, this is because your body is using oxygen to break down, or oxidize, the fat that it needs for fuel.

As the intensity of work increases, either because workload or pace increases or the terrain steepens, your heart beats faster to meet the demand for oxygen from your muscles. You are now in your second heart rate zone, and working at about 60 - 75% of your maximum heart rate. As the demand on your body increases, less oxygen is available to oxidize fat for fuel and your body produces excess lactate. So, as your HR increases your body responds by looking for other sources of fuel, which it readily find in the form of glycogen (sugar), also known as carbohydrates. Lactate production will continue to rise, causing symptoms like muscle weakness, rapid breathing and nausea. Climbers will often say that they’re “bonking” when they reach this stage. The HR at which your body predominately uses glycogen for fuel and the amount of lactate in your blood rises above it’s baseline level, is your aerobic threshold (AeT). Because we don’t have an endless supply of carbohydrates, you are only able to sustain work above aerobic threshold for two hours or less.

Determining your aerobic threshold allows you to maximize your training time. The goal of an endurance athletes is to improve your speed and power at your AeT. This is accomplished by training for many, many hours at, or just below your AeT. This type of work often feels easy, especially to athletes that have ascribed to the “no pain, no gain” training motto. Stick with it and over time your AeT will increase.

Why do endurance athletes care? A higher aerobic threshold allows you to work at higher intensities for longer.

There are many methods to determine your AeT, competing a blood lactate test or gas analysis test at a metabolic testing lab is the most accurate. You can also estimate your AeT by gradually increasing your exercise intensity on a run or cycle until you notice that it becomes more difficult to breathe through your nose. To do this, warm up for 15 minutes with easy running or cycling on flat terrain. Gradually increase your effort by increasing speed or incline until you notice that you begin breathing through your mouth. Note the HR at which this breathing transition occurs, it is approximately your AeT. It’s usually helpful to repeat this assessment several times.

Like HR zones, AeT is a personal number. Having a higher AeT than your climbing partner doesn’t mean that you are more fit than them.

Now that you know your AeT, it should become the foundation upon which you build your cardiovascular training. Plan to spend several training sessions per week, especially early in your training regimen, at this heart rate. If trail running is your preferred mode of cardio, begin with three forty-five minute runs per week and build up to one two-hour run and two one-hour runs weekly.

This type of training isn’t glamorous. But, it is the proven method to build your cardiovascular capacity. Over time, your aerobic threshold will increase which will allow you to work at higher intensities for longer periods of time.

Incorporating Technology into Endurance Training

There are many gadgets and apps available to record your workouts and track your training progress.

Most athletes already have a smart watch that records workouts and measures heart rate, pace, speed, elevation, power, distance, etc. If you don’t yet have one or in the market for a new one, i’ve had the best luck with Garmin devices. I personally have used the Fenix since its third iteration. Though it’s a sizable investment, I’ve not regretted the purchase once I started using the watch. On newer models I especially like the acclimatization and pulse oximeter features. Though I’m not a fan of it rating every run against the last one. There’s nothing more defeating than being a mile into a run, feeling great, hearing a ding! come from your wrist, looking down and Garmin telling you that you’re unproductive.

When you begin a training regimen, record all of your training sessions with your smart watch. There are arguments against recording strength sessions because they will skew your overall fitness calculation since your HR will be much lower than during a cardio session., so if you’re a HR zone purist, omit don’t record strength.. I strongly recommend uploading all of your workouts to an application that analyzes fitness, fatigue, training load, and heart rate zones. I, and every athlete I have coached, have used Training Peaks for many years. I like that it is geared toward endurance athletes, and has solid analytical data. The UI could be improved IMO but the analytics outweigh the some-times clunky interface. I especially like the ability to measure an athletes fitness, fatigue, and training load. And, I like that an athlete has access to all of the data and analytics that I do as a coach, it empowers the athlete and is another way to keep them engaged in their progress.

A word of caution: don’t let the data be the only measure of your progress. I’ve worked with several athletes that question whether they should complete a workout because their Oura ring told them to take a rest day. Data is great, it can be powerful. But, also thoughtfully consider how your body is feeling. If you’re not sore or fatigued, you probably don’t need a rest day.

In the end, I encourage athletes to test all of the gadgets and technology that the can, find one that works for you and your coach, and use it in a thoughtful way that enhances training, it shouldn’t be burdensome.

The Hypoxia Hurt Game

Your head hurts, you’re slight­ly nau­seous, each step you take injects pain into every cell of your body, and you have a hard time wran­gling the moti­va­tion to eat. Hun­gover? No. Just climb­ing at ele­va­tion. Wel­come to the hypox­ia hurt game.

As moun­tain ath­letes, the ele­va­tions that we play in affect our bod­ies and minds in many ways. If you’re like us, you want get the most out of your time trekking or climb­ing in the moun­tains, it’s impor­tant to under­stand the phys­i­o­log­i­cal changes that your body is endur­ing at ele­va­tion, and how they man­i­fest for you. 

How well you do at high alti­tudes depends on many vari­ables to be sure. You can train for months in advance of your trip and be in the best shape of your life, but if you ignore the poten­tial impacts of high alti­tude ill­ness your hard work may all be for naught. Prepar­ing for a high alti­tude trek or climb includes train­ing, get­ting the essen­tial equip­ment, some men­tal work, and under­stand­ing what your nutri­tion­al needs will be. But, the first and fore­most way to pre­vent ill­ness up high on your climb is knowledge.

How high is high?

Alti­tudes over 9,000 feet (2,743 M) are con­sid­ered high. This means whether you are on Mount Bak­er, Kil­i­man­jaro, or Aconcagua, you will be impact­ed no mat­ter who you are and how well you do up high. As ele­va­tion increas­es, atmos­pher­ic pres­sure decreas­es. Low­er pres­sure allows the oxy­gen mol­e­cules in air to spread out. This means that each of your inhala­tions at alti­tude con­tain few­er oxy­gen mol­e­cules. At the top of Ever­est (29,035 ft / 8848 M) the par­tial pres­sure of oxy­gen is one-third that of sea-lev­el. If you were mag­i­cal­ly deposit­ed at the top of Ever­est with­out pri­or acclima­ti­za­tion you would lose con­scious­ness with­in min­utes and you would die.

Adap­ta­tion

There soon becomes a lot of activ­i­ty in your body as you arrive at high­er alti­tudes. The first reac­tion is your body accli­mates to low­er pres­sure and less oxy­gen with both acute and longer-term changes. Ini­tial­ly, your body, won­der­ing where all the oxy­gen has gone, responds by increas­ing your res­pi­ra­to­ry and heart rates to increase oxy­gen deliv­ery to tis­sues. Then, your kid­neys start pro­duc­ing bicar­bon­ate and increas­ing urine pro­duc­tion to keep your pH neu­tral. After a cou­ple of days at a new ele­va­tion your heart and res­pi­ra­to­ry rates start to slow down as your pH returns clos­er to nor­mal. Your body also responds by increas­ing a hor­mone called ery­thro­poi­etin which in turn increas­es the pro­duc­tion of oxy­gen-car­ry­ing red blood cells. Increased ery­thro­poi­etin pro­duc­tion starts with­in min­utes of arriv­ing at high alti­tude but takes 2 – 3 weeks to complete.

How to pre­vent illness

If you’ve ever rushed the acclima­ti­za­tion process, like a two-day ascent of Mount Rainier, or dri­ven to the top of Pike’s Peak, you’re famil­iar with the headache that marks the onset of Acute Moun­tain Sick­ness (AMS). Oth­er alti­tude-relat­ed ill­ness such as High Alti­tude Pul­monary Ede­ma (HAPE), High Alti­tude Cere­bral Ede­ma (HACE) and High-Alti­tude Flat­u­lence Expul­sions (HAFE) can also occur; the for­mer two can be dead­ly, while the lat­ter only threat­ens the wel­fare of your tent mate and lead you to end up sleep­ing out­side. These risks can be min­i­mized by fol­low­ing a prop­er acclima­ti­za­tion strat­e­gy, chang­ing dietary habits, and in some cas­es by using medications.

If you are com­ing from low­er ele­va­tions, or even sea lev­el, those aren’t points against you in the game of high alti­tude moun­taineer­ing or trekking, it’s just some­thing that needs to be strate­gi­cal­ly han­dled with each new ele­va­tion reached. You don’t need the cen­turies old genet­ic adap­ta­tions to alti­tude of a Sher­pa or the Andean Quechua, just some basic things will go a long ways in help­ing you reach your goal.

As moun­tain ath­letes who endeav­or to climb high and feel as strong as pos­si­ble, the best way to work with the changes that alti­tude caus­es is to accli­ma­tize. Prac­ti­cal­ly, this means ascend­ing to a new high point then return­ing the same day to sleep at a low­er ele­va­tion. This climb high, sleep low approach allows your body to slow­ly adapt to the stress of per­form­ing in an oxy­gen deprived environment.

So, what’s a moun­tain ath­lete to do?

• If you’re join­ing a Moun­tain Mad­ness trip, please read the sec­tion of high alti­tude ill­ness in your depar­ture info we send you; otherwise,

• Plan acclima­ti­za­tion into your schedule

• Reduce as much stress on your body as pos­si­ble. Stay hydrat­ed, rest, eat well

• Com­mu­ni­cate how you’re feel­ing to your guide or teammates

• Lis­ten to your body — there are times when you have to push through the hurt and oth­ers when it’s bet­ter to take a time out; it’s ok to take a break now and then

Some sol­id resources

Train­ing by your­self or with a part­ner is fine, get a pro­gram dialed and stick to it. But, if you hire a train­er it’s worth con­sid­er­ing find­ing some­one that has some knowl­edge of high alti­tude climb­ing and trekking and what your body goes through. Alpine Ath­let­ics own­er Lisa Thomp­son, who has climbed the Sev­en Sum­mits and K2, has pro­grams that train you, gives you advice on equip­ment and nutri­tion, and that pro­vide invalu­able insights from some­one that has played the hurt game and over­came the chal­lenges of high altitude.

A go-to books to get you schooled and intrigued at the same time include is  Going High­er.

Con­trib­u­tors: Dr. Tracee Met­calfe, Lisa Thomp­son / Alpine Ath­let­ics, and Mark Gunlogson / Mountain Madness